When I see the map of China, for some strange reason, I am reminded of Madeleine de Scudery’s Map of Tenderness. In 1653, this lady drew a map of an imaginary land that represents the path to love. All the place names on De Scudery’s map refer to a mood or an emotion.
On the map, there is a lake called The Lake of Indifference. It is certainly Xi Hu, the West Lake, in Hangzhou. This body of water makes the city unique. It seems that nothing can be done without the imposing presence of this lake.
Paradoxically, being a constant feature in the city makes it, indeed, indifferent. I walk in the historic area of the city near Nan Shan Lu. It is infested with tourists. There is a mosque of the Hui people and a monument dedicated to printing. In the West, few know that printing was born here before Gutenberg. For a foreigner, except for Beijing, Xi’an, and Lhasa, all Chinese cities, especially the centers, are pretty much the same. Tall skyscrapers, luxury brands, perfectly identical perimeters. But that’s not the case in Hangzhou, thanks to the lake.
Of course, there are modern buildings here too, even a Nikola dealer and endless McBurger’s outlets. But the lake prevails and dominates everything, as if to remind us that China is vast and different. When I first moved to Hangzhou, of which I didn’t even know the existence, my Korean colleague, very kind, took me to the city center because I was already in crisis after a week. I needed Western food. Well, Western food doesn’t really mean anything. I needed edible food, and especially without meat and fish. So, he takes me to the Terry Centre, probably the largest shopping mall in the city.
Beautiful, spacious, clean. When I entered the supermarket on the ground floor, I felt like a child in a toy store. Overwhelmed by excitement and my colleague’s smiles, I dive into the products: peanut butter, all kinds of cereals, pizza, gluten-free pasta, packaged dried fruit, but above all, olive oil. It’s my favorite and the healthiest. It’s quite expensive, but I think it’s better to spend money on food than on buying the latest yPhone.
Happy and reassured to have found my refuge, I fill up the cart and head to the cashier. 1200 RMB. Shocked by the amount, I ask the cashier if she added everything up correctly. She, too, smiles and says, “Yes!” Not at all pleased with my silly spending, I leave. This time, the Korean doesn’t smile but laughs, “You couldn’t resist, right? It happens to everyone.” I start to think that maybe my salary isn’t that high after all. But I was wrong; I just needed to adapt, understand, and embrace where I live. That day was also my first encounter with Xi Hu. Thinking about the expenses and the crowd around (it was a Saturday afternoon), my face indicated that the lake is just a lake like any other.
I couldn’t understand why my fellow countryman, Marco Polo, was enchanted by it. It was a different time; there were no shopping malls and selfies. He must have appreciated it in all its splendor. The poet Ouyang Xiu also mentioned it. I have read some of his poems, including the one about Hangzhou. It goes like this:
“The beautiful spring breeze has arrived. I return to West Lake The spring waters are so clear and pure. Green they could be lately…..”
And then I stopped. I love poetry, in the broadest sense of the term, but this one was definitely boring and didn’t help me understand the beauty of Xi Hu. Disappointed, I return home. I ask the Korean colleague if he wants to go out for dinner. He tells me it’s already late. It’s 5:30 pm. He’ll have a bite at home and then read a book. Another lesson learned in the first month. Chinese people eat earlier than me. They have lunch at 11:30 am and dinner between 5:30 pm and 6:00 pm. Usually, I don’t eat before 1 pm and before 9 pm. In the first few months, I missed out on any invitations. Either it was too early for me, or it was too early for them. After all, I couldn’t eat unless I was hungry.
Moreover, my diet is not really understood around here. Once I was invited to lunch. I didn’t know that Chinese people share all the dishes. Being picky, I was initially disgusted. I was afraid of getting hepatitis every time I touched the chopsticks. Another habit to remember. The other guests, being kind, reassured me, seeing my awkwardness, “Do you want a fork?” No, I replied, thinking that was the problem. I’m in China; I have to do as the Chinese do.
I love potatoes, especially those cooked Sichuan-style or those from northern Beijing. The first ones are sautéed in a small wok with oil, garlic, onion, and chili. The second ones are cut julienne like carrots, lightly fried in a pan, but always with chili. My mother is right: anything with salt, chili, or fried is good. It was a struggle to pick up just one potato with the chopsticks. Having grasped the technique, I still couldn’t manage to hold it properly. Was it too much oil, or was it my poor skill? So, I just impaled it, to the amusement of the other diners.
My favorite food is jiaozi. Near my home, close to the Xixi campus, there is a small JiaoziDian (the “dian” at the end of Chinese words is like our “-eria,” for example, pizz-eria) that has four vegetarian options: tofu, tomatoes, eggs, chives, and mushrooms. It’s inexpensive, but I consider it much better than those expensive places where you pay a lot and eat very little. Jiaozi are similar to Italian ravioli and tortellini.
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Italian-born Australian Matteo Preabianca (Matt Bianca), is a linguist, lecturer, and translator whose work reflects his extensive travels across several countries. Fluent in Italian and English, he channels his dual cultural identity into a diverse portfolio that includes published English poems, experimental music albums, and novels. He holds a PhD in Socio-Education applied to languages and an MA in Advanced Buddhist Studies. He works with English, Italian, Mandarin, and Pali, and is the creator of The Gentle Law, a platform exploring Early Buddhism and Western philosophy. He writes on culture, languages, philosophy, and animal rights, blending intellectual depth with contemplative insight.